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Monday, September 13, 2010

Hiking (and Eating!) Through the Swiss Alps

Arosa, Switzerland
Summertime in Europe is traditionally celebrated by the locals with long, lazy sojourns to Spain and the Mediterranean where they can relax on the beach, soak up some sun, and escape the stuffy or stormy climates from whence they came. Fortunately for us, this translates into two key benefits when working out a summertime trip on the continent: 1) the proclivity of Europeans to frequent Greece, Spain's Balearic Islands, and typical working-class holidays spots such as Benidorm means there are relatively few other travelers at the non-beach destinations, and 2) the desire for those destinations (and the airline carriers that supply those destinations) to attract visitors keeps prices below what they would normally be.

Tschuggen Bergoase Spa
So it was armed with this information that we planned an end-of-summer holiday weekend to the Swiss Alps -- four days of hiking, fondue, spa treatments, more hiking, local wild game, and just about all the Swiss stereotypes you could shake a stick at. We selected the small off-season village of Arosa as our base of operations given its easy access via the Swiss rail system, excellent ski-based infrastructure (think free, enclosed gondola rides to the tops of the more grueling mountains) and picturesque location amidst the convergence of the Swiss and Italian Alps. And what else does Arosa boast that other nearby villages do not? How about one of the Leading Hotels of the World, the Tschuggen Grand Hotel, and its Mario Botta-designed Tschuggen Bergoase spa.


After a quick (1 hr, 10 min!) flight from London Heathrow to Zurich and a remarkably-efficient transition to the regional train system (Zurich's airport connects to the central train station via a convenient city train below the airport's central terminal) we were enjoying a comfortable and scenic train ride past alpine lakes, precipitous granite cliffs, wooly sheep and brown swiss dairy cows, and enough multi-story waterfalls that we soon lost count. The Swiss rail system is everything you'd expect from the world's pre-eminent watch makers: smooth, efficient, and punctual. The only thing we wish they offered was complimentary beverage service in their first-class cars...



The Parpaner Rothorn
Over the next three days we explored the extensive and well-marked local trail system, which included the possibility for hikes of any length and level of difficulty. Arosa's location in the glacial mountain valley, surrounded by foothills that gradually extend upward to the rocky thrust-fault formations of the Weisshorn, Parpaner Rothorn, and other imposing mountain peaks means than even beginners and occasional walkers can enjoy the scenery and bracingly-fresh air from the trail only 1/4 mile from town. Armed only with the freely-provided and widely-available trail map given us by the hotel, we easily set out on short walks through the adjacent farmlands and longer jaunts along mountain ridges and up as far as we could get without technical climbing equipment. 
Pizokel - spinach pasta and crispy bacon

Fondue!
And what could go better with limitless views of an Alpine landscape, crisp mountain air, and the faraway sounds of Swiss cows in the valley below? Why, the heartiness of Swiss cuisine, of course! A blend of German, French, Italian, and Romansh traditions, Swiss fare has stressed the importance of locally-sourced, in-season products throughout its history -- there are no food fads here. Rich yet subtle fondues of Gruyere, Emmental, and Appenzeller cheeses dipped into with freshly-baked whole grain breads; schnitzels of local chamois and venison paired with slightly crispy, oven-finished spaetzle, roasted chestnuts, and sweet pickled cabbage; and some of Europe's best-kept secrets in wine are more than ample options for refueling after a good day's hike.

Spaetzle
Spending a rainy day at the spa? The Bergoase boasts a wonderfully serene and airy cafe where you can enjoy lighter fare in between treatments or after a splash in one of the many jetted thermal pools.

Restaurant Grischuna
While we chose to visit in the summer, the Swiss Alps are obviously better known as an international ski destination. With the likes of Zermatt, Chamonix, and Verbier just a short train ride away, Arosa also makes for an excellent base camp from which to explore the rest of the region in wintertime. That is, of course, if you tire of the world-class skiing and all that Arosa has to offer -- and that doesn't seem too likely.


Whether you're looking to stretch your legs in the Alps, the Andes, or anywhere in between -- we've got you covered. As your in-the-know source for where to go, what to do, and what to eat, think of The Gastronomic Traveler as your globe-trotting friend with all the in's. We'll get you where you want to be!